orchid pots 蘭の鉢

Your preference for ceramic pots for their aesthetic appeal is understandable, as they can indeed enhance the overall look of your bonsai display. The three basic pot shapes you mentioned – standard, azalea, and bulb pots – each have their own characteristics that can influence the visual presentation and even the growth of the bonsai tree.

In the context of orchids, which thrive in shallower pots compared to other bonsai species, the azalea or bulb pot shapes are often recommended. These types of pots provide the appropriate conditions for orchids, allowing for sufficient root space and drainage. However, using a standard pot can also work if you adjust the growing conditions to simulate the shallower pot environment required by orchids.

When it comes to selecting the appropriate pot size for orchids, it is generally advisable to slightly under-pot them. This practice helps prevent the soil from retaining excessive moisture, which can be detrimental to orchids that prefer well-draining conditions. By choosing a pot size that is slightly smaller than what the orchid may initially fill, you can promote healthier root growth and overall plant vitality.

Ultimately, considering the specific needs of orchids and your personal aesthetic preferences, selecting the right pot shape, size, and material can contribute to the successful growth and visual appeal of your orchid bonsai compositions.

When selecting a pot for an orchid, there are two fundamental rules to keep in mind that are key to promoting the health and growth of the plant:

1. When choosing a pot for an orchid, prioritize the root mass over the amount of foliage. To determine the appropriate pot size, carefully remove the orchid from its existing pot, clean the roots of old medium and debris, and assess whether any root trimming is necessary. Select a pot that can comfortably accommodate the roots without cramping them. This ensures that the root system has adequate space for healthy growth and development, which is crucial for the overall well-being of the orchid.

2. A general guideline for repotting orchids is to choose a pot size that will allow the orchid to grow undisturbed for at least two years before needing another repotting. By selecting a pot that provides ample room for the orchid's roots to expand and grow over an extended period, you can minimize the frequency of repotting and promote stable, sustained growth for the orchid.

By following these two rules when selecting a pot for your orchid, you can create an environment that supports the root system, encourages healthy growth, and minimizes the need for frequent repotting, ultimately contributing to the long-term health and vitality of your orchid plant.

  • deep

    takasa yori hiroinohachi (高さより広い針)

  • circular

    marui hachi (円い鉢)

  • shallow

    hochoutai yori habaitai hachi (放長体より幅体鉢)

  • neofinetia

    neofineteia ran no hachi (ネオフィネティア蘭の鉢)

  • cymbidium

    shinbikiumu ran no hachi (シンビキウム蘭の鉢)


choosing ther right orchid pot

Basic Guidelines

As a general rule, if you put the oldest part of the plant against the edge of the pot, the youngest part of the plant should be In about the middle of the pot with another half of the pot to grow into.
Sympodial orchids you must consider how closely the canes or pseudobulbs grow together..

Paphiopedilums and Cymbidiums prefer an ultra tall pot perhaps one that is two or three times taller than it is wide.

Phalaenopsis - 95% of all Phalaenopsis will be repotted into either a 4" or 6" azalea pot.

Cattleya pots will vary all over the board In both the type, size and shape. Cattleyeas with closely spaced pseudobulbs like those with nodosa or bowringiana In the genetic background will enjoy being more tightly packed In the pot. Cattleyas with more spraying rhizomes like those with walkeriana or digsbyana in the genetic background will require larger pots.

With cattleyas, the more important thing to remember are:

a) A cattleya will only bloom on new growth so the retain old growths for only two reasons either for the food and water reserves retained In the old pseudobulbs or for the hope that a new lead will develop from a blind eye on an older pseudobulb.

b) You need a minimum of 3 and preferably 5 pseudobulbs for a cattleya to have sufficient reserves to undergo repotting without a long period of transplant shock.

c) Aggressively removing the older growths because the new growths will be more attractive, healthier and be able to grow longer In the pot than if you have water that space on the older, damaged and sometimes ugly older pseudobulbs that will never bloom

Dendrobiums always use a pot that appears to be a little to small for a dendrobium. If you look at how closely the canes grow together and assume your plant will stay In the same pot for 2 or 3 years, you can appreciate how it will thrive In that almost to small pot. Generally using azalea or bulb pots and daily inorganic mix as their roots do not like to be disturbed.

Oncidiums are not to particular about their potting mix or type of pot. After you have trimmed up the plant and given its roots a haircut, select a pot size suitable for the remaining root mass.

Paphiopedilums tend to like taller and slender pots. You'll select your pot size based on root mass once you've cleaned up your plant.

Cymbidiums like any pot that is well drained and has ore depth then width. The roots tend to go straight down In a lot of species and shallow pots slow down growth. Leave about two inches In clearance around the plant.